The wave Matahi Drollet practices on is one that most surfers spend their careers preparing for — Teahupo’o. So it’s no surprise when, at just 16 years old, he took on an enormous wave, earning the XXL Award and the attention of the global surf community. While his pure talent is undeniable, his patience seems almost super human. In 2021, he took on one of the biggest waves ever at Teahupo’o — after waiting nine hours for it. But with all the years spent in those waters, Matahi’s connection to the wave could be described as spiritual, and he knew exactly what he was looking for. And while he’s a professional surfer, you won’t find him frequenting the competition circuit, but rather chasing the biggest, heaviest surf the world has to offer. For Matahi, surfing is an equal partnership with the water he’s in, and pays respect to the ocean by only showing up when he’s 100% of mind and body.
