The BWRAG rule of thumb for big wave safety is to take stock of how someone measures up in those conditions using KAT: Knowledge, Abilities, and Technology. When heading out into big wave territory, knowledge of the surf breaks, rip currents, red, orange, and green zones, and how conditions will progress throughout the day is paramount to surviving these beasts.
The next thing to measure before heading into the water is a person’s physical ability: their strength as a swimmer, their ability to keep calm under duress, and if they know when to go full boar and when to hang back. The last to note before paddling out is technology. Double check that any PFDs (personal flotation devices) are in working condition, square off with ski operators, and make sure that an emergency kit is prepped and readily available. See how Mark Healey stays prepared to take on 30+ foot waves.